INTRODUCTION

Wouldn't it be nice?

On a cold winter's day towards the end of 2007 Rob, my partner and a keen cyclist, casually said how nice it would be to cycle from our home in Horsham, West Sussex to our house in Tarn & Garonne, South West France. Although I had enjoyed the cycling we had done together I hadn't ever contemplated cycle touring.

I had put on weight and at nearly 14 stone felt really unfit and needed something to motivate me - this was it! Before he had time to tell me that, actually, it was just a day-dream and he didn't mean it I was hooked on the idea and was already talking about really sticking to my diet this time and training schedules. And so that is how we found ourselves, only hours later, in our local bookshop buying a map of France.

As we sat with the map spread out on the floor and a compass set to 60km it didn't really occur to me how far apart St. Malo and Tarn & Garonne were.



I saw it more as lots of day rides which was probably just as well as if I had realised it was a distance of nearly 1,000km I might've changed my mind there and then.

From then on we spent all our spare time during the winter months route planning. By using the compass we worked out where we needed to spend each night and looked at various map sources on the internet to try and work out the flatest (well it was a holiday after all), most scenic route between each point taking in towns that looked interesting - but not too many main roads. Rob spent hours putting all this information into a garmin navigator and researching off-road sections we could use. He has also written an account of our trip and has included more detailed information on the route than I have. His journal can be found here.

I spent a lot of time searching for chambres d'hotes and hotels on the internet - it was very important to me after a day's cycling to know that I was going to be staying in a nice, clean place with a real bed and a shower and for me this selection process was part of the holiday. Where I could, and the budget allowed, I chose accommodation with a pool for the perfect end to the day. We had decided to pre-book everything partly to keep us focussed on our daily distance and partly because I couldn't think of anything worse then arriving, tired, to be told that there were no vacancies and having to get back on the bike and look for somewhere else.

2008 - The Year of the Ride

At the beginning of 2008 it was time to start training as although Rob was physically fit I wasn't (although the diet was working and I had began to lose weight). We had decided to do the trip on the tandem and therefore needed to be at the same level of fitness. Rob was unfortunately suffering from a leg injury which we knew would be ok by the time we set off on our trip but at the beginning of the year was to stop him training. I took this opportunity to get ahead and took my training very seriously. I devised a 30 mile route around the local lanes taking in some quite hard climbs and during the winter did this once a week whatever the weather (including one memorable day in the sleet). When the lighter evenings arrived I increased this to twice a week.

By May I was feeling a lot fitter (and had managed to lose 3 stone in weight) and Rob's leg was better. We decided that it was time to get back on the tandem as we hadn't ridden it for about a year and we wanted to make sure we could still ride it. It was lovely to be back on it and we were soon riding well together. During all the time we had been training we felt confident we could do the ride. The one question we didn't ask ourselves was is the tandem up to it?

We are fit but is the tandem?

Out on one of our regular training rides the tandem just didn't feel right. We continued a bit further and then it became apparent that we had a problem with the bottom bracket. We limped home and hoped it was something that could be easily fixed. We arranged to take it to a bike shop in Croydon that had a good repuation and were very happy when we got it back all fixed and ready to go.

We were only three weeks away from our departure date by this time and decided to ride our newly fixed tandem down to Chichester Harbour to meet up with some friends who were down there for the day morris dancing. We might even cycle back again. This would be a good test of our stamina and the new repair.

Oh No - Not Again

As we approached Chichester the familiar feeling in the pedals came back and we had to face the fact that the bottom bracket had failed - again. We apologised to our friends that we couldn't join them as planned, had a hasty lunch by the harbour (which would've been lovely in better circumstances), and then caught a train back to Croydon and back to the bike shop. They were extremely helpful and couldn't believe what had happened and fixed it using a part from one of the staff's own bike so they knew that it worked and wished us well.

Two Weeks To Go

I was beginning to feel nervous about this - it had seemed a good idea at the time! It had never occurred to me that the tandem might not make it and after the second breakdown my confidence in it was minimal. To make matters worse we were running out of time to test the repair due to the continued wet weather.

One Week To Go

We spent the weekend before our departure trying to work out how we were going to pack everything we (well I) wanted to take into two panniers. We were going to take minimal luggage - just 3 sets of cycle clothes together with one warm cycle jumper and trousers each plus waterproofs. I packed a couple of summer dresses, a lightweight jumper and a pair of flip-flops for the evenings - that was it. I just hoped it would be warm as there was no room for thick jumpers! I'd never travelled so light - I would normally take more than this if I was going away for a night.

We managed to keep our toiletries down to a minimum too and only took things that were essential. We bought small travel sizes of things where we could and saved space (and weight) by taking soap instead of body wash and shampoo and conditioner in one.

Along with a comprehensive tool kit which included a new bottom bracket and spokes we also packed things such as plastic plates and foldable cutlery for our picnics, a foldable rucksac for shopping/rest days and a first aid kit.

Somehow we managed to fit it all in and the tandem sat in the conservatory ready and waiting. We tried to ignore the fact that we still hadn't been out for a long ride, to test the repair, due to the continual heavy rain we were experiencing. Then Rob caught a really bad cold that turned into a chest infection. Any nerves about the tandem not being fit enough were put on hold - would Rob actually be fit enough to cycle?

Maybe we should cancel

On the Wednesday evening we seriously talked about cancelling the trip, or at least postponing it for a week, but if we did that there was no guarantee we could get the same accommodation one week later and unless we could stay in the same places the route would have to be re-planned.

By Thursday Rob was feeling a lot better and I finished work with a great send off and words of encouragement. My colleagues had a map of the route that they were to follow during my absence. I left the building feeling rather strange - I wasn't just going off on holiday for 3 weeks, I was about to do something that some people thought was absolutely mad. I wasn't nervous until then and then, as the office door shut behind me, it suddenly hit me. What on earth was I doing?

On Friday, after a day at work, Rob wasn't feeling too well again. We again talked about cancelling. We decided to see how he felt in the morning but agreed that if we did go we wouldn't cycle to Portsmouth, as planned, but would have a lazy day at home and get the train to Portsmouth in the afternoon to give him the optimum amount of rest. We would just have to wait and see what the morning brought.

It felt very strange to be on the verge of such a big adventure still not knowing whether we would be going or not and this added to the feeling of uncertainty about the whole trip. What on earth had made us think we could do this in the first place? Could we actually do it? Could the tandem actually get us there?

DAY 0: HORSHAM - PORTSMOUTH

SATURDAY 12 JULY

I awoke early still not knowing whether the trip was going to go ahead or not. Rob was still feeling weak but hoped that a relaxing day at home, and a good nights sleep on the boat, would help his recovery further and he would be well enough to start the trip when we reached St. Malo.

We decided the only way to test if he was well enough was to get out on the bike and see. So, for the first time with the panniers on the back, we got on the tandem and headed towards Tilletts Lane - a steep hill used on our training rides. Rob reasoned if we could cycle up Tilletts Lane he was well enough to do the trip. If we couldn't make it up Tilletts Lane then we would have to face facts.

We had a good ride and I was pleased to note that the panniers didn't make too much of a difference to our performance. In fact before we knew it we were at the top of Tilletts Lane. The trip was on! With all the uncertainty of the past few days I had sub-consciously not been working through my to-do list quite as quickly as I should. I needed to get home and get on as I had things to do - then I had a bike to ride. At that moment any worries disappeared - I felt fit, I could do this. Even if Rob wasn't feeling too well - I was the stoker, I would get us there through determination alone.

After a relaxing (very) late lunch in the garden we set off for Horsham station to catch the 4pm to Portsmouth.


It seemed very strange taking the tandem through the ticket barrier that we know so well from our daily commute to work



Getting down the steps to the platform wasn't easy

The journey had finally begun and we enjoyed the train ride through the Arun Valley all the way to Portsmouth. We were relieved to find Portsmouth station had a ramp at the exit and discovered for the first - and not the last - time that a loaded tandem isn't that easy to manoeuvre.

Within minutes of arriving in Portsmouth we were frantically looking for our jumpers to keep out the fresh sea breeze. We had some time before our scheduled check-in and sat in a shelter in Southsea watching the ferries and contemplating the journey ahead.

The pigeon was enjoying a stroll on the prom too

When we started to get cold (and bored) we put on our thick waterproofs and cycled to the ferry terminal in search of warmth. It was not a pleasant ride heading out of the city with all the Saturday shoppers and we still had a few hours before our sailing.

It felt very strange without the security and comfort of the car - not to mention warmth

There are advantages - we were invited to board an hour before everyone else

The Britanny Ferries bike shed

Once on board we settled into our cabin and then had a look around the deserted ship where just a few staff were preparing for the crossing. We put our name down for a table in the restaurant and went to wait in the bar.

We made it - time for an apero

The meal was very good and a perfect way to start our trip. The cheese and desert buffet were particularly memorable (especially for a cheese and pudding monster who had been on a diet for too long). We needed the little stroll around the deck before going to bed.

The reflective clothing works

Then it was time to retire to our cabin we had a hard day ahead of us.

France - here we come.

DAY 1: ST. MALO - IFFENDIC: 87.8km
SUNDAY 13 JULY

I woke up just after 6am feeling so excited about the adventure ahead. I had slept really well (considering how narrow the bunk bed was) and I just wanted to jump on the bike and go. We went up on deck to get some breakfast and watched our approach to St. Malo.

It was rather grey and cold - but at least it wasn't raining



We're in France! We don't have much luggage for 2 weeks

We cycled out of the ferry port as if it was the most normal thing in the world and promptly got lost! This was due to reading the Garmin incorrectly. The Garmin had been bought specially for the trip and we were still learning how to use it. However, we were soon on the right road and heading out of St. Malo - in a vertical direction. I wasn't expecting a steep hill on a fairly busy road quite this soon and it was a bit of a struggle, not helped by the fact that Rob was still not back to full strength. It was at this point that I had a slight panic that the rest of the holiday would be like this and I wondered - albeit briefly - what I had let myself in for and whether I would actually enjoy this.

Any fears I had began to disappear on reaching a lovely country lane looking across to the sea

We followed beautiful lanes, bordered mostly by maize, taking us through dark stone villages. It was still quite cloudy but the sun was trying to come out and we had to make frequent stops to put on/take off our jumpers.

The weather could go either way

It had obviously rained recently

Time for our first stop already in Saint-Jouan-Des-Guerets - I could get used to this

We then continued on lanes to the start of the Rance Estuary.

The scenery was absolutely stunning and I was really beginning to enjoy the ride



We cycled through St. Suliac

and down to the water's edge

Then it was more undulating lanes bordered again by maize and corn and through more picturesque villages and hamlets.

The view was worth the climb

A scary moment - we went down this hill so fast I couldn't appreciate the lovely view of the bridge

At Lyvet-le-Port we picked up the Rance cycle path

This flat waterside path led us all the way to Dinan - and the sun finally came out - perfect

Although mindful of the time we had a very nice relaxing lunch in Dinan and were feeling really good about the whole trip. The morning's ride had gone very well and we didn't feel at all tired. I was really enjoying myself (the fact it was lovely and warm helped after such a cool, grey start). This was going to be a fantastic experience.

We opted to have lunch in a pizza restaurant up a side street

After lunch we continued to follow the Rance

and then minor roads

We came across a clean public toilet in a village and I took the opportunity to change into a cooler cycle top and re-apply the magic chamois cream as I was beginning to feel a bit saddle sore. We spent a bit of time having a re-pack of the panniers too.

By this point it had turned into a hot summer's day

We felt we had reached a mile stone at the Department border - but were ready for a break

Despite being on top of a steep hill Becherel was a perfect place to stop

We enjoyed a walk around this beautiful literary town before finding a welcoming old fashioned tea shop within an antique book shop. We were enjoying sitting down, and would like to have stayed longer, but by this time it was 5pm. We really had to force ourselves to get back on the road as we still had a few more kms to go before we reached our chambre d'hotes.

We used our last reserves of energy on the undulating roads to Iffendic. Iffendic looked a lovely little town but we didn't have time to stop as we had the table d'hotes booked at 8pm.

Iffendic's old wash house with locally made wicker "washing"

The last couple of kms of the day were up a hill and we were both relieved to see the sign for Le Val Ory at the top. We started to descend the drive on the bike and then decided to push the last little bit as the gravel was very loose and uneven and we didn't want to risk having a puncture - or falling off.

It hadn't occurred to us when booking to ask what the drive was like

Suddenly, we were rewarded with the sight of a Breton long house in a tranquil clearing in the woods.

A Perfect choice - it was worth all the resesarch

We were given a very warm welcome by our hosts for the evening who helped us park the tandem in their garage and were then shown to a beautiful room in the attic of a converted barn. We were told that dinner would be at 8pm. It was gone 7pm by this time so we just had time to jump in the shower and make ourselves look presentable for the aperos that were served in the garden overlooking the fields at the back of the house. We were joined by a family from Paris who were also staying there and although it was very friendly we were suddenly feeling tired and found it hard work to make polite conversation in French with people we had nothing in common with.

The home cooked meal that was served in the old beamed sitting room was very nice but we didn't eat too much as we didn't want to appear rude - and there wasn't that much to go round. We continued to keep making polite conversation in French when all we really wanted to do was talk to each other about how our first day had gone and the days ahead, and help ourselves to more food!

By 11pm we made our excuses and went to bed. The Parisian family went off to watch the village fireworks as it was the eve of Bastille Day but we didn't fancy the gravel drive in the dark (or the hills) and fell into bed tired but happy that the first day had been such a success and we had got this far.

DAY 2: IFFENDIC - BRAIN-SUR-VILAINE: 72km
MONDAY 14 JULY

We woke up to the sun streaming through the window. The long-range forecast hadn't been that good and it was such a relief to see that it was wrong! It was the sort of weather I had dreamed of and we couldn't wait to get up and get going as we both felt really positive after such a good day the day before.

I'm not religious but finding the bike waiting next to the cross felt like a good omen

At about 9am, after a Breton breakfast of pancakes, we pushed the bike back up the gravel drive. It wasn't the easiest start to the day but it was a very pleasant walk through the woods with the birds singing and the warmth of the day beginning to filter through the leaves. We were pleased to see the tarmac D road at the top of the drive and soon got into our stride as we headed towards St. Peran.

The roads were empty as it was Bastille Day

The only time the map source let us down - it told us there was a road here


We followed quiet roads, again bordered mostly by maize, and found ourselves following the route the Tour de France had taken a couple of weeks previously.



St. Peran's welcome to the Tour de France

Even the small lanes had tributes to the Tour

A quick stop in Maxent

We stopped for morning coffee in a very friendly bar in the village of Campel where everyone wanted to know more about our trip. Coffee was served from a domestic filter machine and to reach the loo you had to walk through the patron's front room, negotiating her television which was on for those wishing to watch it. As was often the case as we left we were wished "bonnes vacances" and "bonne route".

I was really hungry by this point - a French breakfast is not sufficient when you are cycling - and I went to the village shop to look for food. Unfortunately the most substantial thing I could find was a packet of biscuits.

Campel was really friendly - shame about the lack of bakery

We followed the road through Maure-de-Bretagne which looked a very nice town but we didn't have time to stop because we had decided to get to the Port de Guipry for lunch and were conscious that the sacred hour of mid-day was approaching.

We picked up the old railway line at Maure-de-Bretagne.

This cycle path would take us all the way to the Port de Guipry. The track was quite wide with a fairly good surface in places but in others it was quite overgrown and very stony. We were cycling quite fast as we didn't want to miss our lunch and as I ducked out of the way of over hanging brambles I didn't dare mention the word puncture.

The cycle path cut through beautiful countryside - but there were a lot of barriers to negotitate


We had assumed on reaching the Port de Guipry and that there would be a path from the cycle track down to the Port. This wasn't the case and in a desperate attempt to get to a restaurant before they stopped serving lunch (that is a downside of French restaurants, they do stop serving so early) we somehow managed to manhandle the loaded tandem down an incredibly steep bank from the bridge above and through the local campsite. It was about 1.30pm by the time we reached the port and service at the first restaurant we tried had already stopped.

Luckily the Creperie du Port was still open

Exactly what I had hoped for - a lovely meal in the sun

The view was good too

After working our way through the crepe menu it was time to move on.

We picked up the cycle path by the side of the Vilaine

We spent the afternoon following the river all the way to Brain-sur-Vilaine. It was absolutely stunning.



We had the Vilaine on our left



and beautiful countryside on our right

It was a lovely hot day and it was so tranquil to follow the river firstly on the cycle track and then on a lane. It was just how I had imagined cycling in France would be and I was enjoying every minute of it.

We hardly saw a car all afternoon

On the approach to Brain-sur-Vilaine at about 5pm I had my first "I have to get off the bike now" moment. I was beginning to feel a bit uncomfortable as riding a tandem doesn't give you the ability to change position in the saddle as you would a solo bike.

The village wasn't as picturesque as it might've been due to the road works

Our chambre d'hotes for the night was the home of the mayor.



It was a beautiful house full of antiques with its facade on the main street

and its garden backing on to the river


As it was Bastille Day the table d'hotes was not available so our hosts had booked us a place at the village meal that evening. It all seemed a bit uncertain as to what time the meal would start but as we were right in the middle of the village it was not a problem. After we had had a shower we had a walk round the village to see if there was any sign of anything happening - which there wasn't. This didn't surprise us as most village festivals are like this, one minute there is no-one around and you think you have the wrong day and then the next minute there are stages, dance floors and refreshment tents everywhere.

We decided to go back to our chambre d'hotes and rest and try again a bit later. The mayor and his family together, with their guests, were having their meal in the garden when we got back and we didn't like to intrude so we sat in our room.


It was a good chance to catch up on our diary writing


After a while we decided to go back out and see if there was any sign of the evening's festivities. There was slightly more happening and a bar had opened and rows of tressle tables were ready to accommodate diners. We bought a bottle of red as our apero and sat down at one of the tables and decided we would just wait and see what happened. Suddenly the tables were filling up and a queue for food had begun so we tagged on the end and got our beef stew. Luckily there was really nice bread on the table and we were able to fill up, to some extent, on this.

We felt rather out of place not knowing anyone but it was a lovely evening to be sitting outside and we were happy. We had had a really lovely day's ride and this cycle touring was proving to be easier than I had anticipated. I thought we would be getting to our destination each evening exhausted but actually we had arrived still feeling fresh - although of course this was only our second day! The weather was also helping, it was absolutely glorious - I'm sure the day's ride wouldn't have been so scenic if it had been grey and raining.

We were entertained by a French group singing English sea shanties and Irish folk songs

As we ate we were aware of a group of local English people behind us and we fell into conversation with a lovely, friendly man who asked us if we would like to join his table. We really enjoyed the evening chatting to him and his French wife and everyone made us feel really welcome and were interested to hear about our trip. I encouraged everyone to get up and do some Breton dancing and there was more dancing later in the evening when the disco started. We waited until midnight to watch the fireworks and then, reluctantly, said goodbye to everyone who now felt like old friends, as we needed to get a good nights sleep.